Of the Hand

Box elder burl plasticized and dyed black

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Box elder burl plasticized and dyed brown with black eyes

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Boz elder burl plasticized and irregularly dyed

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The terms "stabilized" and "plasticized" are often encountered on sites selling wood grips, but from site to site, there is inconsistency in their meaning.  In order to clarify my use of these terms, I have below given my interpretation.

I consider stabilizing to be a treatment that penetrates the wood, making it resistant to dimensional changes due to changes in humidity.  There are several products that have been developed for this purpose.  From talking to one supplier of stabilizing solutions, I learned that their products are solvent borne chemicals that penetrate and coat the cellular structures of the wood.  The wood is not generally soaked in the solution, but merely dipped for a few seconds--just long enough for a fairly shallow penetration.  As the solvent evaporates, the cell walls remain coated with a film of  the functional chemicals.  If the wood is soaked in the solution, it can take months (maybe years) for the solvent to evaporate.  In most cases, completely saturating the wood is not only impractical, but also unnecessary since the treated outer surface will protect the untreated core.  I don't have enough experience with their use to have an opinion about them, but based on what I have read, they do what they are designed to do.  Other than slightly darker color, wood stabilized in this way neither looks or feels different than it did prior to being treated.

Plasticizing is a process that substantially fills the cellular structure with a liquid resin that cures into a solid.  Little or no solvent is used.  The result is a composite analogous to a fiberglass composite, with the wood fiber replacing the glass.  This, of course, stabilizes the wood, but it also increases its density, strength and hardness, while rendering it very resistant to penetration by water, whether liquid or vapor.  It also enhances the beauty of the wood by making it more permeable to light.  This gives the wood visible "depth," making the grain "pop" and increasing chatoyance.  Dye can be added to the resin to create otherwise unobtainable color.  Sometimes wood is only partially plasticized to yield dramatic contrasts.  Plasticizing is usually done with wood which pleases the eye, but is unsuitable for functional use, such as woods that are naturally soft, or have been weakened by fungal attack.

To summarize, one treatment is not necessarily superior to another.  Each must be considered in context.  Soft or punky wood is made functional by plasticizing, but hard and stable wood is usually not benefited (and probably can't be plasticized in the first place)..  A dense, but unstable wood may be improved by stabilizing.  In many cases it is simply a matter of personal preference.  If you want a natural look and feel, an untreated or stabilized wood may be best.  If exceptional durability or unusual color are important, a plasticized grip might be your best choice.  If you are not sure if or how a grip is treated, ask questions until you are satisfied that it is suited for your use.

I have developed my own process for plasticizing wood and other porous materials.  I am unfamiliar with the processes used by others, have never used their product (I hear it is very good) and therefore can’t compare it to mine. That said, my process yields a dense composite that is strong, hard, takes a nice polish and adds depth and luster to the wood. It is also very resistant to water—for plasticized grips I do the final three stages of sanding (500, 1000 & 2000 grit) with water lubricated abrasives.  The attached images are grips made from box elder burl that I have plasticized using my process.

I am interested in learning more about both stabilizing and plasticizing.  Please share your knowledge about the processes or your experience with the treated product.